Some birds see travel as a great adventure, while others prefer to stay at home in familiar surroundings. Sometimes, though, your bird’s preference may not matter because you have to travel by air or take him to the veterinarian. Because he probably can’t tell you whether he enjoys traveling, you will have to do some detective work.

But how do you do this? Simple—take your bird for a short ride in the car and judge his reaction to the experience. Does he display happy body language, such as hanging on the cage bars watching the world whiz by the car window, or does he cower on the cage floor and scream? Paying attention to these kinds of signs will tell you whether your bird will enjoy an occasional trip in the car or will be able to travel for emergency purposes only. 

For air travel, tell the reservation agent that you want to bring your bird along, and find out what requirements must be met for a bird to fly by plane. 

You will most likely have to place your bird in a carrier. The carrier must open easily, be large enough for him to stand normally, be durable enough to protect him during the trip, and be free of items that could injure him during travel. The carrier should also be well ventilated and have a grille or subfloor that catches all droppings. 

The carrier should also be clearly marked with your name, contact information, and destination address. It should also say “LIVE ANIMAL” and have directional arrows indicating the upright position of the carrier marked on its sides.

Give your bird time to get used to a carrier before a trip. Let him climb into it and spend time in it. Once you feel that he is comfortable with it, you can make your travel arrangements.

If you have a bird who loves the car, you will need to obtain a travel cage. This cage is smaller than your bird’s main cage but still large enough to allow roaming and spreading of the wings. It should have food and water bowls and toys. It must also be well ventilated and have a portion on the bottom that collects his wastes. Secure the cage when it is in the car using safety straps or a seat belt.

Your pet must be comfortable and familiar with his travel cage. Try to give it the same layout as his regular cage. Bring the travel cage into your home, and let your bird spend some time in it to become familiar with it. 

If you plan to take your bird on a long-distance trip in the car, make reservations at a pet-friendly hotel along your route. Conduct research for such destinations, as not every establishment welcomes animals. Request a nonsmoking room for you and your bird, and clean up any messes completely before you check out.

Depending on the situation, you can use either your bird’s travel cage or his carrier to take him to the vet. If you are bringing him in for an annual checkup and he enjoys car travel, take him to the vet in his travel cage. If he doesn’t like the car, place him in a carrier. 

If your bird is injured and you are taking him to your vet or to an emergency veterinary hospital, it might be best to employ the help of an of-age family member to drive while you hold your bird wrapped gently but firmly in a towel to minimize movement.

By Craig Sernotti 

Source: petuniversity.com

So you’re allergic to cats and you don’t want to be constantly covered in dog hair, but you really want to share your life with an animal. What do you do? The answer is simple: Go small! 

Many small animals don’t take up a lot of room, are inexpensive and easy to care for, will entertain you with their lively antics, and will even seek your attention and affection. But just like with any pet, you must make an educated decision on which small animal you will eventually bring home. By researching the small animal that’s right for you, you will be able to choose the best one for you and your family.

How big are small animals? How do you handle them? What is required for their care? What animals are available? Answering all these questions will help you narrow down your choices and assist you in making the right decision.

Before all else, you must first commit to providing the best home possible for your small animal. This means buying the optimal cage or enclosure for him. Also, you must clean the cage regularly—they don’t eliminate outside of the house like a dog but instead excrete their waste and live with it in the cage. They can’t clean up after themselves, so you must do it for them, and often. 

You must also provide the right diet for your small animal. For example, sugar gliders can be given an occasional insect because they are omnivores by nature. Guinea pigs love fresh fruits and vegetables, but there are some that should be avoided because they are harmful to the animal.

Overall, you need to keep your small animal healthy and happy. Besides seeking veterinary help when necessary, you must know if he is best kept with others of his own kind. Rabbits will develop unwanted behaviors by themselves and become lazy and listless because they are bored—so they do better in pairs. Conduct as much research as possible before you buy your small animal to learn how best to keep him.

Not all small animals are very small. While gerbils are small enough to fit in your hand, rabbits can grow relatively large. Guinea pigs are in between the two, size wise. Decide which size will work for you. Do you want a tiny creature who can be kept in a small cage, or do you prefer one who’s bigger?

Small animals are obviously more diminutive than dogs and cats and therefore more fragile. This means that you must be gentle when handling your pet. If you handle your animal regularly while he is young, he will be less skittish about being held when he’s older. You can wrap your guinea pig up in a towel—they will curl up and squeak contently. A ferret who has happily adjusted to a home will love to be cuddled and petted. Rabbits will play with you while roaming around outside their cages. 

All interactions between small animals and young children should be monitored by an adult.

You will find a variety of small animals available for purchase. Pet stores are sure to carry the more common species—hamsters, gerbils, guinea pigs, mice, rats, ferrets, and rabbits. If you want a more exotic small animal, like a chinchilla, sugar glider, or hedgehog, you will have to contact a breeder to obtain one. If your pet store cannot recommend one to you, search the Internet for a local breeder or supplier.

Source: petuniversity.com

Guinea pigs (or cavies, as they are also known) are gentle, cuddly pets who enjoy human companionship. They benefit greatly from daily interactions with their owners. With a little training, you can even teach your guinea pig to do simple tricks.

Depending on which one of the 13 recognized species of guinea pig you select, your pet may have smooth, short hair, or he may have a kinked, cow-licked, or curly coat. His hair may also flow freely in long locks. The coat will fall into one of 23 color and pattern varieties. Guinea pigs weigh about 1 to 3 pounds (1/2 to 1 kg). Their teeth and nails always grow—you must provide chew toys and trim their nails so that both will not become a health concern. Guinea pigs are social creatures who fare better in pairs. Keep males with males and females with females unless you want babies or have your guinea pigs neutered.

Natural History

Guinea pigs are originally from South America. They were first domesticated between 2500 and 5000 B.C.E. Explorers brought them from the region to Europe. Queen Elizabeth I of England was among the first European guinea pig owners. 

How the guinea pig got his common name is somewhat of a mystery. “Pig” seems to come from the squealing noise the animal makes from time to time, but the “guinea” part is a bit more difficult to pin down. At one time, these animals were sold for a guinea in Great Britain. Some may have come from the South American country Guyana, which can easily be mispronounced as “guinea.”

Enclosure and Setup

Your guinea pig’s cage will need to be big enough to accommodate him (or pigs, if you decide to keep more than one), his food bowl, water bottle, some toys, and a box or “house” for sleep and security. It should be made of wire, with a solid bottom. A solid floor will keep your guinea pig from injuring his feet or legs.

There are several types of bedding available. Purchase commercially bagged products, like aspen shavings. Other safe choices include timothy hay, recycled paper products, hemp fibers, wheat litter, or cellulose.

Diet

Feed your guinea pig dry pellets, which are commonly available at pet stores—steer clear of diets that contain seeds or nuts because they may pose a choking hazard. You must supplement the pellets with hay and vitamin C. Hay provides fiber so that your guinea pig can digest his food properly, and vitamin C must be given because he cannot produce it on his own. Vitamin C is present in dark green leafy vegetables, tomatoes, oranges, peas, and other fruits and vegetables. 

Although guinea pigs always appear ravenous, they do not eat to the point of gluttony; they feast only until they are full.

Grooming

Brushing should be an important part of your guinea pig’s daily routine. Start by brushing him at the back of his head, and work down his back, brushing in the direction his hair grows. For short-haired guinea pigs, use a soft-bristled brush. For long-haired pets, use a metal comb.

Unlike some other small animals, guinea pigs can be given a bath if one is required. Use only a shampoo formulated for guinea pigs or small animals. Use warm water and a small amount of shampoo. Keep soap out of your pet’s eyes and ears. Hold him firmly but gently, and be sure to rinse off all the shampoo. Pat him with a towel to absorb excess water, and then wrap him in another dry towel. Your guinea pig must be completely dry before he is returned to his cage.

You must trim your guinea pig’s nails when they grow too long—about once every 8 to 12 weeks. If you’re unsure how to do so, a veterinarian can show you how to do it properly. When cutting a guinea pig’s nail, be careful not to cut the nail down too far, as this will rupture the quick, a blood vessel at the base of each nail. You should have styptic powder on hand to stop the bleeding in case you cut the quick.

Health and Illness

By spending time with your guinea pig, you will learn his normal behaviors and be able to recognize any changes in routine or appearance, which usually mean that something is wrong.

Guinea pigs are prone to a variety of illnesses, injuries, disorders, and infections. If you suspect that something is wrong with your pet, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Gerbils were first introduced to the pet industry in 1964. These were the Mongolian gerbils. Their value as pets was soon appreciated and they are now found in pet shops all over the UK and USA. It is illegal to purchase, import, or keep a gerbil as a pet in the U.S. state of California.

Gerbils are ideal small pets who entertain their owners with their cute and captivating habits. Affectionate and lively, they will recognize that their owners and will learn that you represent food and playtime. 

Including their tails, gerbils measure about 9 inches (23 cm) in length. They have large eyes that help them see when foraging at night. They hoard food and burrow. Gerbils communicate with one another by squeaking and by thumping their back legs. They should be kept in pairs—a single gerbil kept by himself will be unhappy and won’t thrive. A pair should be purchased when they are young because adults can be territorial. If you keep a male and female together, expect your pets to constantly have babies. Gerbils live two to four years, but some occasionally live to be five years old.

There are at least 80 known species of gerbil. Most live in arid climates in desert habitats throughout Africa, parts of Europe, and across Asia into China. Wild gerbils are well adapted to the extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night and between winter and summer. 

Gerbils have been bred in captivity for more than 70 years, and scientists consider them to be domesticated. They now breed throughout the year (originally they only bred from February to October), have grown larger, and are no longer timid and nervous.

A gerbil setup is similar to one for a hamster. You can keep them in a glass aquarium with a secure wire-screen cover, a wire-frame cage, or a combination wire–plastic cage. Gerbils are land dwellers, so they need a wide cage rather than a tall one.

There are a few bedding options. The best bedding is made from recycled paper or wood pulp—it contains no harmful inks, dyes, or heavy metals. It is also dust-free, which is important because dusty materials can irritate a gerbil’s respiratory system. Whatever type you choose, provide a deep layer—about 4 inches (10 cm)—so that your small pets can dig and burrow.

Your gerbil cage must also have a food dish, a water bottle, a nest box, and toys. All these items come in different shapes, colors, and sizes. Make sure that you clean the food dish and water bottle regularly. Toys can be store bought, like an exercise wheel, or can be found at home, like an empty cardboard paper towel roll. 

Pet stores sell rodent mixes, which are great for your gerbils. You can also offer a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, such as apples, bananas, berries, avocados, carrots, red peppers, and many others. Almost all gerbils enjoy chasing, catching, and eating live foods; you can feed them crickets, mealworms, and waxworms, which are often sold at pet stores for reptiles. 

Most gerbils stop eating when they have consumed enough calories. Remove any uneaten fruits or vegetables so that they don’t rot. If you notice that your gerbils’ food bowl is constantly empty, give them more food. Conversely, if you always notice lots of uneaten food, you are giving them too much and must cut back. 

Gerbils don’t appear to be prone to as many potential ailments as are other small pets. However, if you notice signs of illness or injury, contact a veterinarian immediately. Discharge from the eyes, lethargy, and reduced appetite are all signs that something is wrong.

Experts estimate that between 20 and 40 percent of gerbils develop seizures when they are about two months old. This condition is inherited. The seizures are usually over in a few minutes and have no long-term effects. If your gerbil has a seizure while you have him out of his cage, return him to his home until he recovers. Many gerbils outgrow this condition, and it doesn’t seem to affect life expectancy.

If you stick to a cleaning regime—clean the cage, change the bedding, and keep the water and food fresh—your gerbils will live in an ideal healthy environment.

Like hamsters, gerbils spend a lot of time washing themselves and biting their nails to keep them neat and trimmed. Pet gerbils like dust baths, and they can be quite entertaining to watch while they bathe. Use chinchilla dust or bird gravel for this purpose; washing your gerbils with soap and water can make them quite sick.

By Craig Sernotti

Delightful and entertaining small animals, ferrets are eager, rambunctious, and tireless. If you’re looking for an interactive companion pet who has all the best qualities of a cat and dog rolled into one, then a ferret might be the right choice for you. Be sure that a ferret is the small animal you really want, though. Owning one is not the same as owning a dog or cat. A ferret’s curiosity, playfulness, and energy can be charming but can also make him tough to keep up with at times. 

Ferrets come in many colors and patterns. They often change colors with the seasons—they’re lighter in the winter than in the summer, and many lighten as they age, too. They are about 1 to 5 pounds (1/2 to 2 kg) in size, and some can live as long as 15 years. Some are cuddly, while others are independent. A single ferret won’t be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small amount of extra trouble.

Ferrets are not wild animals. They have been domesticated for about 2,000 to 3,000 years. Ferrets are believed to have been descended from the European polecat, and they were used as hunting animals, chasing rabbits and rodents out of their holes so that the hunters and farmers could kill them. It’s thought that the Egyptians and Greeks kept them as pets. Ferrets are cousins of weasels and otters.

House your ferret in a sturdy wire cage. It must be large enough to allow him ample room in which to move around. Because the ferret is a ground-dwelling animal, the cage must have plenty of available floor space. It must also have a strong latch and be escape-proof. Make sure that the cage has distinct sleeping, feeding, and toilet areas.

Put a food dish, a water bottle, a litter pan with litter, bedding, and toys in the cage as well. Pelleted products made from paper or plant fibers are excellent choices for ferret litter. The bedding can be a polar fleece baby blanket, cotton T-shirts, and sweatshirts—your ferret will arrange it into a nest for sleep.

Your pet requires time out of his cage. Give him at least two hours of exercise and interaction with you on a daily basis.

Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning they must eat meat and only meat. Their bodies cannot properly digest fruits or vegetables. Feed them a variety of quality food items. You can buy a commercial ferret kibble from the pet store, but know that just because a ferret is featured on a bag of food doesn’t mean that it’s safe for ferrets to eat. The protein content should be meat based and between 35 and 40 percent. Fat content should be at least 20 percent.

Some keepers offer their ferrets raw meats, mostly chicken and rabbit. Others provide appropriately sized live prey items, like mice, rats, quails, and chicks. 

Your ferret must always have a supply of fresh, clean water.

You can brush your ferret. He will not like staying in one spot too long, so get into the habit of doing several quick brushing sessions rather than one long one. Use a soft short-bristled brush.

You can also give your ferret a bath, but only do this once a month. Some ferrets may take naturally to water, while others may not. Try to keep the experience as stress-free as possible. Fill the tub or sink with enough slightly warm water so that your pet is mostly covered, and use a gentle shampoo. Lather him up and rinse off all the shampoo, then dry him off with a towel. 

Nails should be clipped every two weeks or so. Also, try to brush your ferret’s teeth at least once a week.

Health Care and IllnessYour ferret needs to visit a veterinarian every year for a checkup and to receive vaccinations against rabies and canine distemper. If you notice that something is wrong—a physical change, a behavioral change, a change in appetite, or litter box content or habit changes—see the vet immediately.

By Craig Sernotti
Source: petuniversity.com

By Craig Sernotti

Chinchillas (or chins, as they are sometimes called) are growing in popularity as pets today thanks to their cuddly appearance and friendly nature. They aren’t difficult to care for, don’t require much space, and can become very tame, particularly if you start out with a young chinchilla. 

Chinchillas rank as one of the costlier small animals, essentially because of their slower reproductive rate. They have a very distinct look, with their large ears, bushy tails, long whiskers, and silky fur. The standard color is gray, but there is an ever-increasing range of color varieties now available. Chinchillas are mostly nocturnal, so they sleep during the day. They are social animals, and if you decide to keep more than one, opt for females—males are more likely to act aggressively toward one another. Because chinchillas have a far longer life span than most other small animals—they can live for up to 20 years—think long and hard before buying one, and be prepared to care for him for a long, long time. 

Chinchillas originated high in the Andes Mountains of South America. Their thick fur protected them from fluctuating temperatures—very hot during the day and very cold at night. Humans discovered them during pre-Columbian times, and the Incas used their silky coats to create gowns for their rulers. When the Spanish invaded the region in the 1500s, they hunted and exported millions of these animals for luxurious clothing. A massive surge in demand for fur in the 1800s resulted in the hunting of an ever-increasing number of chinchillas. 

By the 1920s, the chinchilla was close to extinction because of the fur trade; to fuel the trade, breeding colonies were successfully established, and once there was enough stock, the animals were used for clothing. Today in the wild, the two types of chinchillas—a short-tailed and a long-tailed variety—are considered to be endangered.

Chinchillas need a relatively large cage, the biggest you can afford and accommodate in your home. Also, they like to climb, so the height is important. The chinchilla’s strong teeth will easily chew through plastic, so make sure that the cage is wire. A solid floor inside the housing is best, as this will protect his feet.

Like other small animals, your chinchilla will need a nest box or a small “house” for sleeping and security. You should also provide a thick layer of bedding, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. The bedding should not be made from harmful types of wood, such as cedar, and should be free of any toxic wood preservatives.

Branches that utilize the cage’s height will greatly benefit your active pet. Secure these to the cage with a clamp or screw-type fixture. You will also need to include food and water containers, an exercise wheel, and chews (specially made cuts of wood to control tooth growth). A portion of the cage should be devoted to bathing—you can purchase the chinchilla dust for this necessary habit from a pet store.

Chinchillas are vegetarians. Give your pet a dry pellet feed—chinchilla mixes are available—and hay. Hay provides the essential fiber that aids digestion. Because neither the pellets nor the hay has much moisture, you must always provide your chinchilla with fresh, clean water.

For a balanced and healthy diet, offer your pet some fresh vegetables. Good choices include red-leaved forms of lettuce, the tops of carrots, parsley, and chard. You can also offer different types of fresh herbs, like mint, basil, thyme, and oregano. Chinchillas will also especially enjoy dandelion leaves. Certain fruits can be offered as an occasional treat. 

Chinchillas are fastidious about keeping clean. Because they come from a part of the world where water is in short supply, they have adapted to bathe in dust. Purchase a special dust powder for this purpose, and change it regularly. A layer of about 2 inches (5 cm) in the bathing container in your chinchilla’s cage will enable him to bathe well.

You don’t have to worry about cutting his nails—they will naturally become filed down as he moves about his cage.

Chinchillas are usually healthy animals who rarely require veterinary attention, as long as their nutritional and housing needs are adequately met. A sick chinchilla will eat less, and you may notice a change in the appearance of his droppings. He is also likely to be sleepier.

Chinchillas can come down with various illnesses, injuries, and infections. If you notice anything wrong with your pet, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Source: PetUniversity.Com