By Craig Sernotti
From petuniversity.com
Guinea pigs (or cavies, as they are also known) are gentle, cuddly pets who enjoy human companionship. They benefit greatly from daily interactions with their owners. With a little training, you can even teach your guinea pig to do simple tricks.
Depending on which one of the 13 recognized species of guinea pig you select, your pet may have smooth, short hair, or he may have a kinked, cow-licked, or curly coat. His hair may also flow freely in long locks. The coat will fall into one of 23 color and pattern varieties. Guinea pigs weigh about 1 to 3 pounds (1/2 to 1 kg). Their teeth and nails always grow—you must provide chew toys and trim their nails so that both will not become a health concern. Guinea pigs are social creatures who fare better in pairs. Keep males with males and females with females unless you want babies or have your guinea pigs neutered.
Unlike some other small animals, guinea pigs can be given a bath if one is required. Use only a shampoo formulated for guinea pigs or small animals. Use warm water and a small amount of shampoo. Keep soap out of your pet’s eyes and ears. Hold him firmly but gently, and be sure to rinse off all the shampoo. Pat him with a towel to absorb excess water, and then wrap him in another dry towel. Your guinea pig must be completely dry before he is returned to his cage.
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From petuniversity.com
Guinea pigs (or cavies, as they are also known) are gentle, cuddly pets who enjoy human companionship. They benefit greatly from daily interactions with their owners. With a little training, you can even teach your guinea pig to do simple tricks.
Depending on which one of the 13 recognized species of guinea pig you select, your pet may have smooth, short hair, or he may have a kinked, cow-licked, or curly coat. His hair may also flow freely in long locks. The coat will fall into one of 23 color and pattern varieties. Guinea pigs weigh about 1 to 3 pounds (1/2 to 1 kg). Their teeth and nails always grow—you must provide chew toys and trim their nails so that both will not become a health concern. Guinea pigs are social creatures who fare better in pairs. Keep males with males and females with females unless you want babies or have your guinea pigs neutered.Natural History
Guinea pigs are originally from South America. They were first domesticated between 2500 and 5000 B.C.E. Explorers brought them from the region to Europe. Queen Elizabeth I of England was among the first European guinea pig owners.
How the guinea pig got his common name is somewhat of a mystery. “Pig” seems to come from the squealing noise the animal makes from time to time, but the “guinea” part is a bit more difficult to pin down. At one time, these animals were sold for a guinea in Great Britain. Some may have come from the South American country Guyana, which can easily be mispronounced as “guinea.”
Enclosure and Setup
Your guinea pig’s cage will need to be big enough to accommodate him (or pigs, if you decide to keep more than one), his food bowl, water bottle, some toys, and a box or “house” for sleep and security. It should be made of wire, with a solid bottom. A solid floor will keep your guinea pig from injuring his feet or legs.
There are several types of bedding available. Purchase commercially bagged products, like aspen shavings. Other safe choices include timothy hay, recycled paper products, hemp fibers, wheat litter, or cellulose.
Diet
Feed your guinea pig dry pellets, which are commonly available at pet stores—steer clear of diets that contain seeds or nuts because they may pose a choking hazard. You must supplement the pellets with hay and vitamin C. Hay provides fiber so that your guinea pig can digest his food properly, and vitamin C must be given because he cannot produce it on his own. Vitamin C is present in dark green leafy vegetables, tomatoes, oranges, peas, and other fruits and vegetables.
Although guinea pigs always appear ravenous, they do not eat to the point of gluttony; they feast only until they are full.
Grooming
Brushing should be an important part of your guinea pig’s daily routine. Start by brushing him at the back of his head, and work down his back, brushing in the direction his hair grows. For short-haired guinea pigs, use a soft-bristled brush. For long-haired pets, use a metal comb.
You must trim your guinea pig’s nails when they grow too long—about once every 8 to 12 weeks. If you’re unsure how to do so, a veterinarian can show you how to do it properly. When cutting a guinea pig’s nail, be careful not to cut the nail down too far, as this will rupture the quick, a blood vessel at the base of each nail. You should have styptic powder on hand to stop the bleeding in case you cut the quick.
Health and Illness
By spending time with your guinea pig, you will learn his normal behaviors and be able to recognize any changes in routine or appearance, which usually mean that something is wrong.
Guinea pigs are prone to a variety of illnesses, injuries, disorders, and infections. If you suspect that something is wrong with your pet, contact a veterinarian immediately.
Gerbils were first introduced to the pet industry in 1964. These were the Mongolian gerbils. Their value as pets was soon appreciated and they are now found in pet shops all over the UK and USA. It is illegal to purchase, import, or keep a gerbil as a pet in the U.S. state of California.
Gerbils are ideal small pets who entertain their owners with their cute and captivating habits. Affectionate and lively, they will recognize that their owners and will learn that you represent food and playtime.
Including their tails, gerbils measure about 9 inches (23 cm) in length. They have large eyes that help them see when foraging at night. They hoard food and burrow. Gerbils communicate with one another by squeaking and by thumping their back legs. They should be kept in pairs—a single gerbil kept by himself will be unhappy and won’t thrive. A pair should be purchased when they are young because adults can be territorial. If you keep a male and female together, expect your pets to constantly have babies. Gerbils live two to four years, but some occasionally live to be five years old.
Natural History
There are at least 80 known species of gerbil. Most live in arid climates in desert habitats throughout Africa, parts of Europe, and across Asia into China. Wild gerbils are well adapted to the extreme temperature fluctuations between day and night and between winter and summer.
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Gerbils have been bred in captivity for more than 70 years, and scientists consider them to be domesticated. They now breed throughout the year (originally they only bred from February to October), have grown larger, and are no longer timid and nervous.
Enclosures and Setup
A gerbil setup is similar to one for a hamster. You can keep them in a glass aquarium with a secure wire-screen cover, a wire-frame cage, or a combination wire–plastic cage. Gerbils are land dwellers, so they need a wide cage rather than a tall one.
Your gerbil cage must also have a food dish, a water bottle, a nest box, and toys. All these items come in different shapes, colors, and sizes. Make sure that you clean the food dish and water bottle regularly. Toys can be store bought, like an exercise wheel, or can be found at home, like an empty cardboard paper towel roll.
Diet
Pet stores sell rodent mixes, which are great for your gerbils. You can also offer a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, such as apples, bananas, berries, avocados, carrots, red peppers, and many others. Almost all gerbils enjoy chasing, catching, and eating live foods; you can feed them crickets, mealworms, and waxworms, which are often sold at pet stores for reptiles.
Most gerbils stop eating when they have consumed enough calories. Remove any uneaten fruits or vegetables so that they don’t rot. If you notice that your gerbils’ food bowl is constantly empty, give them more food. Conversely, if you always notice lots of uneaten food, you are giving them too much and must cut back.
Health and Illness
Gerbils don’t appear to be prone to as many potential ailments as are other small pets. However, if you notice signs of illness or injury, contact a veterinarian immediately. Discharge from the eyes, lethargy, and reduced appetite are all signs that something is wrong.
Experts estimate that between 20 and 40 percent of gerbils develop seizures when they are about two months old. This condition is inherited. The seizures are usually over in a few minutes and have no long-term effects. If your gerbil has a seizure while you have him out of his cage, return him to his home until he recovers. Many gerbils outgrow this condition, and it doesn’t seem to affect life expectancy.
If you stick to a cleaning regime—clean the cage, change the bedding, and keep the water and food fresh—your gerbils will live in an ideal healthy environment.
Grooming
Like hamsters, gerbils spend a lot of time washing themselves and biting their nails to keep them neat and trimmed. Pet gerbils like dust baths, and they can be quite entertaining to watch while they bathe. Use chinchilla dust or bird gravel for this purpose; washing your gerbils with soap and water can make them quite sick.
By Craig Sernotti
Source: petuniversity.com
Training pet gerbils is done by handling them frequently to get them used to human contact, using their favorite treat to reward desired behavior and using lots of toys and accessories to keep them entertained. Train a gerbil to do tricks or just to be sociable with tips from the manager of a pet store in this free video on pet care.
Expert: Ashlee
Bio: Ashlee is the manager at Pet Planet in Riverton, Utah.
Filmmaker: Michael Burton
Delightful and entertaining small animals, ferrets are eager, rambunctious, and tireless. If you’re looking for an interactive companion pet who has all the best qualities of a cat and dog rolled into one, then a ferret might be the right choice for you. Be sure that a ferret is the small animal you really want, though. Owning one is not the same as owning a dog or cat. A ferret’s curiosity, playfulness, and energy can be charming but can also make him tough to keep up with at times.
Ferrets come in many colors and patterns. They often change colors with the seasons—they’re lighter in the winter than in the summer, and many lighten as they age, too. They are about 1 to 5 pounds (1/2 to 2 kg) in size, and some can live as long as 15 years. Some are cuddly, while others are independent. A single ferret won’t be terribly lonely, although the fun of watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small amount of extra trouble.
Natural History
Ferrets are not wild animals. They have been domesticated for about 2,000 to 3,000 years. Ferrets are believed to have been descended from the European polecat, and they were used as hunting animals, chasing rabbits and rodents out of their holes so that the hunters and farmers could kill them. It’s thought that the Egyptians and Greeks kept them as pets. Ferrets are cousins of weasels and otters.
Enclosure and Setup
House your ferret in a sturdy wire cage. It must be large enough to allow him ample room in which to move around. Because the ferret is a ground-dwelling animal, the cage must have plenty of available floor space. It must also have a strong latch and be escape-proof. Make sure that the cage has distinct sleeping, feeding, and toilet areas.
Put a food dish, a water bottle, a litter pan with litter, bedding, and toys in the cage as well. Pelleted products made from paper or plant fibers are excellent choices for ferret litter. The bedding can be a polar fleece baby blanket, cotton T-shirts, and sweatshirts—your ferret will arrange it into a nest for sleep.
Your pet requires time out of his cage. Give him at least two hours of exercise and interaction with you on a daily basis.
Diet
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning they must eat meat and only meat. Their bodies cannot properly digest fruits or vegetables. Feed them a variety of quality food items. You can buy a commercial ferret kibble from the pet store, but know that just because a ferret is featured on a bag of food doesn’t mean that it’s safe for ferrets to eat. The protein content should be meat based and between 35 and 40 percent. Fat content should be at least 20 percent.
Some keepers offer their ferrets raw meats, mostly chicken and rabbit. Others provide appropriately sized live prey items, like mice, rats, quails, and chicks.
Your ferret must always have a supply of fresh, clean water.
Grooming
You can brush your ferret. He will not like staying in one spot too long, so get into the habit of doing several quick brushing sessions rather than one long one. Use a soft short-bristled brush.
You can also give your ferret a bath, but only do this once a month. Some ferrets may take naturally to water, while others may not. Try to keep the experience as stress-free as possible. Fill the tub or sink with enough slightly warm water so that your pet is mostly covered, and use a gentle shampoo. Lather him up and rinse off all the shampoo, then dry him off with a towel.
Nails should be clipped every two weeks or so. Also, try to brush your ferret’s teeth at least once a week.
Health Care and IllnessYour ferret needs to visit a veterinarian every year for a checkup and to receive vaccinations against rabies and canine distemper. If you notice that something is wrong—a physical change, a behavioral change, a change in appetite, or litter box content or habit changes—see the vet immediately.
By Craig Sernotti
Source: petuniversity.com
Source: petuniversity.com
By Craig Sernotti
Chinchillas (or chins, as they are sometimes called) are growing in popularity as pets today thanks to their cuddly appearance and friendly nature. They aren’t difficult to care for, don’t require much space, and can become very tame, particularly if you start out with a young chinchilla.
Natural History
Chinchillas originated high in the Andes Mountains of South America. Their thick fur protected them from fluctuating temperatures—very hot during the day and very cold at night. Humans discovered them during pre-Columbian times, and the Incas used their silky coats to create gowns for their rulers. When the Spanish invaded the region in the 1500s, they hunted and exported millions of these animals for luxurious clothing. A massive surge in demand for fur in the 1800s resulted in the hunting of an ever-increasing number of chinchillas.
By the 1920s, the chinchilla was close to extinction because of the fur trade; to fuel the trade, breeding colonies were successfully established, and once there was enough stock, the animals were used for clothing. Today in the wild, the two types of chinchillas—a short-tailed and a long-tailed variety—are considered to be endangered.
Enclosure and Setup
Chinchillas need a relatively large cage, the biggest you can afford and accommodate in your home. Also, they like to climb, so the height is important. The chinchilla’s strong teeth will easily chew through plastic, so make sure that the cage is wire. A solid floor inside the housing is best, as this will protect his feet.
Like other small animals, your chinchilla will need a nest box or a small “house” for sleeping and security. You should also provide a thick layer of bedding, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep. The bedding should not be made from harmful types of wood, such as cedar, and should be free of any toxic wood preservatives.
Branches that utilize the cage’s height will greatly benefit your active pet. Secure these to the cage with a clamp or screw-type fixture. You will also need to include food and water containers, an exercise wheel, and chews (specially made cuts of wood to control tooth growth). A portion of the cage should be devoted to bathing—you can purchase the chinchilla dust for this necessary habit from a pet store.
Diet
Chinchillas are vegetarians. Give your pet a dry pellet feed—chinchilla mixes are available—and hay. Hay provides the essential fiber that aids digestion. Because neither the pellets nor the hay has much moisture, you must always provide your chinchilla with fresh, clean water.
For a balanced and healthy diet, offer your pet some fresh vegetables. Good choices include red-leaved forms of lettuce, the tops of carrots, parsley, and chard. You can also offer different types of fresh herbs, like mint, basil, thyme, and oregano. Chinchillas will also especially enjoy dandelion leaves. Certain fruits can be offered as an occasional treat.
Grooming
Chinchillas are fastidious about keeping clean. Because they come from a part of the world where water is in short supply, they have adapted to bathe in dust. Purchase a special dust powder for this purpose, and change it regularly. A layer of about 2 inches (5 cm) in the bathing container in your chinchilla’s cage will enable him to bathe well.
You don’t have to worry about cutting his nails—they will naturally become filed down as he moves about his cage.
Health Care and Illness
Chinchillas are usually healthy animals who rarely require veterinary attention, as long as their nutritional and housing needs are adequately met. A sick chinchilla will eat less, and you may notice a change in the appearance of his droppings. He is also likely to be sleepier.
Chinchillas can come down with various illnesses, injuries, and infections. If you notice anything wrong with your pet, contact a veterinarian immediately.
Source: PetUniversity.Com
Need to know that your vet will look after your pet well when they are sick? The best solution is to find a good vet in advance before you need one, to make sure that you feel happy that they will provide the best care for your particular pet.
Choose the right Vet for you.
Ask others in your area of their experiences. Word of mouth recommendations are very valuable as they are usually not biased, and you are more likely to get a true appraisal of the abilities of the vet and the practice in general.
Approach local animal shelters and animal clubs who will have experience of many different vets.
Make sure the vet has experience with your species of pet. For instance, even if a vet has a very good reputation as a canine vet, this is useless if you own a rabbit, because the two species are utterly different.
Prepare a list of questions to ask the vet. These should include:
- Opening times, important if you need to have flexible access to your vet, for instance evenings and weekends.
- Fees – find out their standard consultation fees, also their fees for standard treatments such as vaccinations, worm and flea treatments etc.
- Emergencies – what are the arrangements for out of hours emergency care for your pet, for instance do they do home visits?
- Alternative medicine – find out what their attitude is towards alternative and complementary treatments for your pet.
Never be afraid to ask a vet anything. If you feel afraid to ask them something to do with your pet and it's well-being, this obviously isn't the right vet for you.
If your pet especially doesn't like a certain vet, but doesn't mind others, follow your pet's instincts.
Warnings:
Make sure your vet isn't trying to take your money- a good vet will truly care about your pet.
Source: wikihow.com
Visiting the vet for a routine check-up or for a health concern throughout your pet's life can be made easier and more successful by following some simple steps.
Get your pet used to you touching it so that when the vet feels it, it doesn't mind too much. It is very important that your pet is used to having his mouth inspected.
His feet and nails touched and to being lifted up and moved around. It is also really useful to familiarise your pet with being transported in the car from an early age as well. The familiarity with handling and travelling will ease a lot of the tension for your pet and it also makes it much easier for you and the vet to look for health problems and to administer medication.
Keep your pet restrained or boxed.
When transporting your pet, make sure that she is properly restrained in the car for her and your family's safety. For cats, rabbits, rodents, small dogs, etc. a carrier basket is appropriate. For larger dogs, they might need safety belt restraints or a special dog compartment in the back of the car. Once in the vet's, do not let your pet wander about freely. Many other owners with their pets will be in there and it is very easy for things to get out of control when pets confront one another. Most vets will expect that you keep your pet in its box or on its leash.
Make notes.
If something is bothering you about your pet, it is really helpful to keep notes about the things that you notice, such as reduced appetite, biting one area of the body, pacing, making strange noises, vomiting etc. This will help explain the problem to the vet and you will be able to provide information about the duration of the problem, the precise symptoms and the reactions that you have noticed in your pet.
Ask the veterinary receptionist for advice on what to do ahead of the appointment.
Give a brief explanation of the problem and ask the receptionist if you need to bring a urine or stool sample, not feed your pet, or do anything else in particular.
Be an active participant in your pet's examination.
Sometimes the worry about a pet's condition can cause us to forget any questions that we may have had at home. The answer to this is to write them down as they come to you at home and bring them with you to the vet. Ask also if there are any reliable internet references that you can use. Some things to ask about include:
Discuss your pet's dietary habits. It is always helpful to briefly discuss your pet's diet, especially during routine check-ups. Many vets will likely ask about this but if not, bring the topic up yourself. As your pet grows, different needs for nutrients will occur and if you are not sure about these, ask. If your pet has particular problems, ask if there is anything about your pet's diet that needs changing.
Ask about dental issues. Related to a good diet, often we don't consider the dental needs of pets. It is important to ask about dietary habits that promote good teeth. Be aware that cleaning an animal's teeth is usually a major exercise requiring general anaesthetic, so getting it right to begin with is important.
Discuss any grooming challenges that you are facing. If you are finding long hair is causing problems, ask the vet for solutions. It is important to know what to do, as a severely matted pet may have to undergo general anesthetic to have the matted fur removed.
Keep records of vaccinations.
Even if you rely on the vet to keep records, it is good to also maintain your own records. Bring them to the vet every time and have the records filled out. This will assist you to remember what has been done, when the next vaccinations are due and is also handy if you change your vet.
Ask for a demonstration of giving medication.
Don't be afraid to ask the vet to show you how to give a prescribed medication. Vets are more than happy to show you and be reassured that you fully understand what needs to be done. If you prefer the vet to give regular medications, such as worming tablets, that's fine too provided that you can afford frequent visits.
Tips
Be sure to discuss all of the items and services offered for purchase by technicians. Some items can be bought on-line much cheaper or may be postponed while some may save you a lot of money in the long run. But be aware of the fact that medications bought from online retailers may not have been stored in the same conditions as they are in a veterinarian's office.
When starting puppies and kittens on vaccines, be prepared to make at least 3 visits and spend around $100 per visit.
Most of the on-line medications that have been mentioned above are not guaranteed by the companies that make the drugs due to the way in which they purchase or obtain the drugs. While a lot are cheaper, if you ask you vet and bring in a copy of the price, most will match what is being offered online and you can then be sure of the quality of your product.
If your pet has had problems with vomiting, diarrhea or urine, bring a sample to the vet with you.
If your pet seems to get a bit nervous or creates a fuss over going to the vet take something that might help to calm it down before the vet starts to take a look at it. For Example: a chew toy or a teddy etc
You can also bring your pet's favorite treat or toy to help calm it down.
Warnings
Do not feed your animal if you think x-rays will be needed. The food in the stomach can sometimes block the view of organs such as stomach, intestines, and bladder.
Ask about all costs of any procedures, including care after the initial procedure. A procedure may cost several hundred more than first anticipated when you include the vet care necessary after the first procedure is through. This may help you plan ahead and sort out your finances as needed.
Things You'll Need
List of questions
Carrier basket or restraint
Your pet's favorite chew toy
Source: wikihow.com
Finding the best food is vital to your pet's health and longevity. But deciphering pet food labels can be confusing. Follow these steps to be able to understand pet food labels and be able to compare pet products with confidence.
Learn to look beyond the marketing claims accompanying pet food.
In the USA, pet food labeling is regulated on a federal (FDA) and state-by-state basis, with guidance from the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). However, AAFCO provides only minimum requirements.
The reality is that pet food producers often use terms that are undefined by the regulations, in order to communicate more effectively with consumers and improve their product's image in the market. The AAFCO warns on their website that "it is not rare at all that labeling and marketing information is designed to appeal to the latest trend in marketing human products." In other words, the focus tends to be more on appealing to our preferences than on whether or not the food is suitable for your pet.
For this reason, learn to look behind the marketing hype and to find the real substance of the nutrition status within the pet food.
Locate the "Guaranteed Analysis" on the pet food label.
See the example under "Tips" below. Note that the percentages given for protein, fat, and fiber are measurements of the food in its current state. However, because different pet foods have different levels of moisture, you can only logically compare pet foods on a dry matter basis. Moisture levels in pet foods can range from approximately 6 percent to as much as 80 percent. Canned food obviously contains more moisture than dry kibble. But it may not necessarily contain as much protein, for example. You can't tell which food contains the most protein, fat or fiber until you have converted both labels to a dry matter basis.
Determine the amount of dry matter first, by subtracting the percentage given for moisture from 100 percent. Using the example below, the moisture accounts for 10 percent of the pet food. Therefore, the dry matter content is (100% - 10% = ) 90% of the pet food.
Convert the protein, fat and fiber percentages to a dry matter basis by dividing the percentages given on the label by the amount of dry matter (from the previous step). In our example, the 26 percent protein on the label converts to 28 percent on a dry matter basis by dividing 26% by 90%. (Notice that in this example the dry matter calculation is only slightly different than the labeled percentage. This is because the moisture level was only 10 percent per the label. If the moisture level had been, say, 40 percent, then the dry matter content would have only been 60 percent and protein on a dry matter basis would have been calculated as (26% divided by 60% =) 43%.)
Compare the new protein level of 28 percent on a dry matter basis to other pet foods (once you've converted the other pet food labels in the same way). Do similar comparisons for fat and fiber after converting to a dry matter basis calculation.
Be aware that percentages alone don't tell the whole story.
You may have 28 percent protein on a dry matter basis, but what is the source of that protein? You can get protein from chicken beaks and feet that are not good sources of nutrition for your pet! This means that you'll need to look next at the list of ingredients. Pet foods must list ingredients in order of weight. Generally, the first five ingredients will make up the majority of the pet food product. Ideally, look for meat as one of the first ingredients on a pet food label. Grains, such as corn, corn meal, whole wheat, barley, rice are used to provide essential energy for the pet and appealing texture to the kibble.
Even the AAFCO website admits that "Economics plays a part in any ingredient selection" and "protein is not simply protein. Ingredients providing protein have specific amino acids which may or may not match the amino acid profile required by a cat or a dog." Manufacturers routinely combine multiple protein sources to provide for all the amino acids required for a healthy life.
Be mindful that pet food manufacturers can manipulate this information.
For example, by breaking an ingredient down into components and then listing them individually so that you don't notice a easily recognized undesirable ingredient too near the top of the list, this information can be effectively changed enough to cause you to read the label differently.
Some pet owners search for pet foods that use human grade ingredients with no animal by-products and avoid pet foods that use artifical colors, flavors, sugars and chemical preservatives (notably BHA and BHT).
However, some animal by-products like liver and other internal organs are excellent sources of the amino acids and other nutrients that dogs and cats need. In addition, dry pet foods need preservatives to prevent spoilage and degradation of essential nutrients.
Contact the manufacturer direct to find out what the "by-products" listed in their product actually consist of. Be aware that this may change without warning. Sometimes your pet's reaction will be enough to make this obvious!
Do a cost per weight analysis to determine the weight value of the pet food product.
The density of dry products can be changed through puffing up the food, while different wet foods can be labeled with pounds or ounces (or other measurements), making weight comparison harder. Check the price comparison to get the real value.
Check the label for "nutritional adequacy".
This is one of the most important aspects of a pet food label because it can impact a pet's health if claims are made about being nutritionally complete when the product is not able to meet all nutrient requirements for your pet. To be reassured on this count, look for:
The words: "(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO (Dog/Cat) Food Nutrient Profiles."
Or look for the words: "Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition."
Be sure to choose the right life cycle stage for your pet - this should be on the label too (for example, kitten/puppy). Pet food needed for pets that are growing, reproducing or working hard should be chosen with care that it can meet all the nutrient requirements for that pet. Size, breed or senior labeling claims must meet the criteria for adequate adult pet nutritional needs; in reality, the more precise claims are harder to ascertain.
Read the feeding instructions.
Even if you think you know how to feed your pet the particular product, changes do happen or you might have transposed feeding instructions from one product to a new one. Always read these with care to ensure that you are feeding your pet adequately. However, even though manufacturers try to cover all contingencies, you still need to monitor your own pet's needs, preferences and environmental conditions. Talk to your vet if you're unsure, especially with respect to growing and reproducing pets.
As part of feeding, also read the calories provided by the product. The amount of calories provided can vary considerably between products and between dry and wet foods. If your pet is growing, overweight or underweight, or has an illness, calories are of especial interest.
Calorie statements are made on a "kilocalories per kilogram" basis. Kilocalories are the same as the "Calories", while a "kilogram" is a unit of metric measurement equal to 2.2 pounds. It may also be stated as "per cup" or "per can", alongside the required kilocalories per kilogram statement.
Be savvy about marketing claims such as natural, organic, premium, etc.
These are marketing words without official definitions to back them up. While it is surely to be hoped that all pet food is "natural", this usually refers to a lack of artificial additives, colors or flavors. The words "premium" and "gourmet" and the like are marketing speak and don't mean anything more than what the overall packaging suggests to the consumer. Organic pet food should be free of synthetic additives but guidelines are still under development for the official meanings.
Here's an example of the guaranteed analysis section of a pet food label:
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS:
Crude Protein, not less than……….….26.0%
Crude Fat, not less than……………....16.0%
Crude Fiber, not more than…...............4.0%
Moisture, not more than……………….10.0%
Be aware that actual meat may not have to be added to a pet food to produce a "flavor". For example, a chicken flavor can be produced using a "chicken digest" (such as heat treatment or the addition of enzymes or acids), while a real chicken hasn't been anywhere near the resulting product. Also be aware that claims of "no artificial flavors" are often marketing hype as few pet foods include such flavoring.
Do not feed cat food to dogs and vice versa. Each species has different nutritional requirements, which the pet food manufacturers cater for.
Source: wikihow.com
Do you wonder how to pet a dog? Are you kind of scared that the dog might bite you? Follow these steps, tips, and warnings and you won't get bitten by a dog.
Steps
1. Ask the owner. The dog might look friendly, but if you don't know the dog there is no way to tell how it reacts to strangers. If the owner gives you special instructions that differ to the ones told here, follow them. Ask the owner where they like to be petted.
2. If the dog seems receptive to petting (not growling, jumping and no tail between the legs), then hold your hand in front of the dog's nose with the back part of your hand exposed to the dog, loosely curled almost to a fist (this will keep your fingers from being bitten).
3. Let the dog sniff your hand. If the dog looks up at you (away from your hand) you should be safe to open your hand with the palm toward the dog and fingers extended.
4. If the dog still shows no sign of aggression, slowly stroke the dogs neck just under the jaw.
5. If you have been successful to this point, you may move your hand across the back.
6. Be aware that some dogs are "head-shy" and do not like being petted on top of the head. Also some dogs dislike having their hind-ends petted. Any growl, tail down or sudden moves should signal that you need to STOP what you are doing immediately and stand still. No sudden moves of your own.
7. If you are a "friend" of this dog, more contact may be allowed, such as belly rubs or ear rubs. When the dog trusts you, you may even walk the dog.
Look, dogs want to be patted and they want attention! Don't be afraid of the dog, because the dog will sense it and be more wary of you! When the dog trusts you, you may even walk the dog.
Tips
1. Pay attention to the dog's body language. If he seems aggressive, move away.
2. Be nice to the dog. Move slowly at all times and speak in a soft, calm voice.
3. Avoid making sudden movements, and watch for signs of aggression.
4. Always ask the owner if it's OK before giving any dog a treat. Some dogs have a sensitivity to certain foods such as gluten, which can be found in less expensive treats.
5. Dogs should never bite you, even if they are just playing. This is a training issue and should never be tolerated. If any of the dog's teeth come into contact with you, move slowly away from the dog.
6. The best way to have the dog gain trust in you is to feed the dog.
7. Ask the owner where to pet the dog in case the dog doesn't like to be touched in a certain area.
Warnings
Watch out if the dog looks like it's going to bite you! Walk calmly and slowly away.
Never pet the dog if he/she is eating or chewing on anything. Some dogs are protective of their bones or toys and may attack in order to prevent you from taking their stuff.
Clip: How to pet a dog
Source:wikihow.com
